Of course, the focus of this trip was the Ross Sea. And this was indeed the ultimate humbling experience.

What made it so?

Part of it was the knowledge that we were the only ship down there. This certainly added to the sense of adventure (although I know that nothing was left to chance when it came to our safety).

Then there is the absolute splendour which defies explanation. The mountains and glaciers are simultaneously distant and close.

And seeing the Ross Ice Shelf – just there – right there –  was something I will never forget.

The sounds. The ice swooshing against the hull of the ship as we cruise through it. The distant cry of the emperor penguins. The roar of the katabatic wind. The silence.

The weather was not altogether perfect. However, that added to the experience, rather than detracted from it.

It turned out that this year there was more sea ice than ever before for this time of the year. This meant that we were not able to reach any of the bases in the Ross Sea. Even though there had been a 12-mile channel cut through the ice to Scott Base and McMurdo Base, after only two weeks it had already re-frozen. And so, the best we could do was to look wistfully at the silhouette of the wind generators in the distance.

Even the Italian base at Terra Nova Bay was iced in.

Meanwhile, the sea ice presented us with a totally unexpected opportunity. We were let off right onto it, to wander around with the Emperor Penguins! We were given instructions: stay close enough to hear a summons to return to the ship / keep away from the edge / stay clear of the re-frozen ice channel / be aware of ice cracks (!).

The weather continued to dictate our schedule. There was quite a bit of waiting…..waiting until the conditions improved sufficiently for us to be able to make a dash to the shore. The goal, of course, was the huts.

When the call finally came to go to Scott’s Hut, there was a slightly different routine. We were to go ashore in groups. Despite the beautiful sunshine, the wind and cold would have made the wait outside the hut somewhat challenging. You see, only a handful people are allowed inside at any one time. The rest of us would need to remain in the icy wind. It was about 10pm when my turn came around – that’s the beauty of the Antarctic (daylight all night!)

Getting to Shackleton’s Hut posed a different kind of challenge. The normal route is via Backdoor Bay. However, no surprise, this was iced in. So, we were all let off on the other side, at Cape Royds, to walk over the ridge.

The weather had again conspired to create yet another memorable alternative. The landscape we encountered was vast and rugged.

Then, when we reached the top, a spectacular sight was spread below; not just Shackleton’s Hut in the distance, but also a panorama which took in the surrounding landscape, in all its harshness and beauty.

And so, stepping inside both of the huts was thrilling. Seeing relics from their time. Recalling the vivid descriptions I had read.

Inside Scott’s Hut

In and around Shackleton’s Hut

The fitting conclusion to months of reading about the Age of Exploration. To think that men left these huts to go on dangerous quests for knowledge, some of them not returning…very sobering.

Finally, this was the view of Cape Adare. We tried to get there, but Mother Nature won again. We couldn’t land on the way down, and now we bade the Ross Sea farewell, without landing there on the way back north.